Pipes

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Pipes_loud

http://shadowcruiser1978.blogspot.com/ MOTORCYCLE DIARIES

performance modifications The re-jet kit and air filter had been gathering dust for several weeks. I also want to drill and de-baffle the exhaust pipes, not just for a better sound but to open up the exhaust a bit, since I was going to put a K&N filter in. ( The idea is to let more air in by using the K&N filter, mix it with more gas in the carburetor by replacing the jets with bigger jets and the open up the exhaust for getting all the gases out quickly).

Here's a tip from Joe.

Here's how I ported the exhaust pipes on my V-Star 1100 Classic. Relax, this is a pretty simple job, just take your time and don't over do it with the amount of material you remove. You can always come back and remove more on a second pass like I did.

Here is what I did: I used an old Sears hand held grinder, and a 1" grinding wheel. First the front pipe. After removing the front pipe, I placed the copper washer in the cylinder head and scribed out its size on the head itself. Remove the washer and rout out the excess head material so that the head and the washer hole are the same size. Place the washer on the pipe and do the same thing. Remove only as much material as you feel comfortable with. Never go beyond the size of the inner diameter of the copper washer. I also ran the grinder down the pipe several inches to smooth things out a bit. Done with the front pipe.

The rear pipe has two parts: first the elbow, and then the pipe itself. Simply remove both from the bike and use the copper washer as a guide. Same procedure as the front pipe.

Tips:
The first was to cut a 2" hole in the back side of the air cleaner, next to the original hole. Be careful not to cut through any of the ribs on the cleaner. Just find a flat spot and use a 2" hole saw for the cut. I also removed the rubber tube thing going between the backing plate and inside of the air box. This gives the engine a bigger passage from which to draw air. This procedure is simple to do, and it allows the engine to really get the air it needs. Now when I grab the throttle, the engine sounds like the 4-barrels are kicking in.
The second thing I did to the engine was to port the exhaust pipes. See my User Tip for the details.

http://www.volusiariders.com/viewtopic.php?t=39662&highlight=rejet+kits

wehrd1 wrote:
One last consideration before I order mccarbs.com kit....

Do I HAVE to change stock filter for k&n? if i'm running lean on idle now, wouldn't keeping the smaller air flow filter (stock) help with the leaness on idle?

I'm putting on debaff'd/demik'd pipes & before I order my kit configuration, was wanting to ask do I HAVE to go to higher air flow k&n filter? ....

or is the higher air flow a performance response issue when throttling??

Thanks!


I agree with SSquire above, you might as well change to a K&N and put in a larger main jet to get more juice out of the machine. I did the whole rejet/K&N/de-baffle last weekend. Also disabled the pair valve. Used the Dynojet 155 main and backed the mixture screw to 3.5 turns out. Runs fantastic!
_________________
My motorcycle blog:
http://shadowcruiser1978.blogspot.com

When you contact Robert, robreil@motorcyclecarbs.com, ask him if you could add to the rejet kit, possibly a main jet for OEM air filter and the proper main jet for a K&N filter. I have been writing to him because I need a 142.5 main jet for my after market pipes and the UNI on the carb. I currently have a 150 main jet and that was too rich for my setup so I am getting the 142.5 per his recommendation. Once you open up your carb, and rejet the first time, changing the main jet is like changing sparkplugs

dynojet, www.mccarbs.com,
Dynojet makes a stage 1 jet kit for your bike and I have ALWAYS had my best results with Dynojet kits, these guys really know their stuff. The Dynojet part number is 3126, they also have a high-altitude kit ( in case you live in the mountains) that is part number 3126HA. Tghis kit is designed for a bike with a stock puipe or a quality aftermarket pipe and a K&N filter in the stock airbox. It comes with a range of needles and clips so you can tailor it to your exact specifications. the manufacturers suggested retail on the kit is 85.86 ( probably the best 90 bucks you'll ever spend on your bike) and you can order it from any reputable bike shop.

jack is a sharp dude.k&n is getting out of jet kits.dyno jet always made thier kits for them .1400 intruder #dj3126.sug retail $82.00.i'll sell you one for $62.00 + shipping.fuel screw adjustment is all that's needed with stock intake & exhaust.you didn't mention if your bike was stock.elevation & humidity have a big effect.dealers are becoming very leary of installing jet kits becuase of the e.p.a.I install about 50-60 kits a year.If your bike did not perform correctly after the dealer installed it & they refused to fix it-find an other dealer.I get a handfull of bikes in a year (metric & hd)that supposedly had a kit installed at an other shop.they were sold a jet kit and what they got was a bigger main jet,and some shims under the needle.Jet kits very per model.Some have slide springs, emulsion tubes,pilots and drill bits for slide lift holes. they all come with mains and needles.the 1400 has 2 carbs in 2 diff. locations.they should be synched at idle & at half throttle.there are 2 seperate adj.some shops don't know that. Jim

To get the best out of this modification should it be done with an exhaust gas analyzer or even a dyno?>> Dave--I'm not Jack (who knows WAY more about such things than I ever will), but any time you do any major changes to air or fuel systems, an exhaust gas analyzer and/or dyno is always a good idea. Some of the really good Techs (like Jack) who have years of experience and the brains to evaluate the changes may be able to do it without them, but it will take longer and may not be spot on even then. Ride Safe.

Tips:
If you use a car battery for the good battery, use the same procedure as above except DO NOT START THE CAR OR HAVE IT RUNNING. Incompatibilities between the car and motorcycle electrical systems may destroy some of the electrical components


Reprinted w/o permission as originally published @ http://shadowcruiser1978.blogspot.com, http://www.volusiariders.com/viewtopic.php?t=39662&highlight=rejet+kits,