How to
http://howto.werideonsundays.com/2006/12/14/can-spray-painting/
« How to clean old dirt bikes plastics»
Can Spray Painting
Some tips on how to use a can spray when painting. Most can sprays are quick to dry. Different brands have different characteristics. The distance you spray is a very big factor on the outcome of your work. If your paint job becomes powdery, you are spraying too far meaning that the paint dries before contact. If you paint job has drips, maybe you are spraying too close or too much.
When you are finished using the can spray it is a good practice to turn the can spray upside down and spray about 2 times to clean the nozzle. Air will be sprayed out but not the paint. Don’t over do this because the can will lack air pressure to push the paint out.
I always stock non-gloss black can spray paint. It is very easy to use and even a monkey can get good results. I use it for rusted chassis, cheap bumpers, rack/carriers, mirrors, rims, handles, etc. Your bike might not look perfect but it will look better.
Sticky Cables
If you have a sticky or stiff brake/clutch/accel cable you can try this. First check the cable if it is still worth repairing. Check for cable bents, rust, etc. Put the cable in a pan of kerosene/ pain thinner/ parts cleaner/ oil/ Coca-Cola, overnight (just experiment…). Try if the cable will move and if it does, move the cable wire until it’s movement is smooth. Spray WD-40/CRC/ deep penetrating oil and continue until the oil comes out from the other end (take your time and don’t rush or you might bend the cable). You can also use silicone spray or engine oil if you like.
How to use carburator cleaner and engine conditioner
Using the carb cleaner has pros and cons. The good thing about carb cleaner spray is that it will clean the inside unwanted deposits (carbon build up and sludges). Doing a full carburetor overhaul is the best thing to do but if you want to clean the valves a bit, engine conditioner and carb cleaner is for you. Remember that these chemicals will damage palstic and rubber parts so be very careful when you use them. If you are working on a carburetor or EFI, it is best to put a rag under the carb/EFI and be careful not to drip these chemicals especially on electronic parts. Don’t get too paranoid because they won’t give damage to plastic and rubber parts that easily.
1st get your engine to warm up. Remove the airduct from the air filter. Get a rag and spray the chemical on the rag. Open the flap and stick your finger in and clean the area especially the edges of the flap.
If you want to go further to clean the valves a bit, spray in the carb cleaner/engine conditioner inside the throttle body but make sure that you try to minimize (best if none will enter) the hole just in front of the flap on EFIs because these holes are mostly for idling unit. Do this while the engine is running to get best results but for EFIs with air flow meters, it is best to do it while the engine is not running because if you take the duct the engine will stall. You can still do it but you have to stick in a long hose and redo the clamps. Spray around the throttle body and control the engine’s throttle by pulling the cam or cable. DO NOT OVER DO THIS AND DO NOT OVER REV. If you do this for a long time there may be oil shortage on the valves and you’ll fck the engine. There will be lots of white smoke from the exhaust and try not to inhale the smoke. I quarantee that a normal person without asthma will have asthma if he sucks too much of this white smoke. While doing this, the engine will run funny or will stall but after the routine, your engine should run OK and if not do a full carb overhaul.
It is not advisable to to this on 2 strokers especially for racer models because most racers oil mixture is low. It will basically clean the ports but I advise that you dismantle the parts (cylinder, exhaust) and decarbonizes it manually because manual cleaning is better.
After doing this, spray a bit of CRC/WD-40 on the pivot point on the flap and put the parts back together. Now remove the spark plugs and clean it with a wire brush because there will be soot build-up in the plugs. Start the engine and give it some quick revs until the white smoke is not visible anymore.
There are times that people will think that the carb needs an overhaul but there are times that the vacuum hoses cracks up and engine condition is unsatisfactory. Older Nissan Sunny is famous for this.
Again be very careful using carb cleaners and engine conditioners. If you spill some amount below the unit, wash it out with water ut be careful not to let water enter the spark plug hole or the distributor.
Dead battery and electrical components
I want to share this:
I bought a dead bike and I found out that one of the components of the CDI burned. I bought a CDI and just replaced it. I jump started the bike and the engine worked properly but after several minutes, the CDI burned again. What I did is pulled out the main wiring and stripped all the tapings, checked for continuity, checked the rectifier, fuse box, relays, alternator’s continuity, pick-up coil, coil, meter unit, etc… everything but I couldn’t find anything wrong. Again I bought another CDI and this time with the complete wire harness plus the rectifier, fuse box, relays, and coils.
What I did was jump started it by using a portable power booster that I use for jump starting cars (most stupid thing that anybody can do)… CDI component went bananas again. I forgot that my power booster gives a higher voltage especially when fully charged. Now I have 3 dead CDI’s. I opened the CDI and changed the power up component, checked the diode, chip continuity, board continuity, etc and placed a new Yuasa battery (I love Yuasa). The bike started and I checked the voltage coming out from the alternator. The bike is now sweet and working perfectly.
I called the bike shop where I bought the bike and asked some of the bike’s history. He’s a monkey and don’t know Jack s**t about electricity. My conclusion is that the bike’s battery went flat and couldn’t accept charging from the alternator that fried the CDI. The bike shop guy jump started the bike without changing the flat dead battery and normally it will fry something. I fried the 2nd CDI because I didn’t check the battery if it would accept charging. The 3rd time was another basic stupidity that I forgot that my power booster gives a higher/stronger voltage. Sometimes I forget the basic stuffs and repairs are time consuming, expensive and exhausting and to accept the fact that I’m a dumb monkey who’s not using his coconuts.
Always check your battery if it will accept charging and never use a dead flat battery that will not accept electricity coming from the alternator. Never use a very strong power booster to jump start a bike just like what that monkey did because electrical components are very delicate. If you do not know how to check a dead flat battery, first connect the power booster to the battery and leave it there for about 10 to 15 minutes BUT remember NOT TO TURN ON THE IGNITION KEY. After 15 minutes, disconnect the power booster from the battery. Turn on the key and turn on the marker lights or the head lights. If you don’t see the lights to power on, the battery is probably very dead and it may not accept recharging from the alternator. If you have a DC voltage tester, use it because it is more reliable.
CDI/ECU, digital meters, dynamos, etc are repairable. Some people thinks that they are not repairable Some of them are very hard to open because of the glue, rubber, sticky silicone thing, and some of the units maybe casted or sealed. And again, some are repairable and some are not. Also always check the electrical connectors for deterioration, dirt, weak contacts and wire connection to the connectors. It is wise to file, sand paper, scratch the connectors to maximize, electrical flow. It is also a good practice to spray deep penetrating oils like CRC, WD40, etc but never use non conductive oils.
Improvise
There are time that you may have to use what is around you. There are some repair tasks that requires specialized tools. There are times that you will need special tools if you are planning to be very serious with repair but do not forget that basic tools and improvised tool can take you a long way. I find using a shovel as a lever (for lifting the wheel) perfect for changing the rear tire of a bike (especially big bikes) . The shovel acts like a spoon and holds the tire very well.
I don’t have a press or a tire changer and I use a truck’s rig to detach the tire from the rim’s bead (tubeless tires). It works OK. Large C clamps does the work also especially for bike tires. I tried using the rig as a press to repair my trials engine guard but I was not successful. It works well for some off road engine guards but my trials engine guard just won’t bend… I need to use a proper press to do the repairs… Some works and some doesn’t.
« How to clean old dirt bikes plastics»
Can Spray Painting
Some tips on how to use a can spray when painting. Most can sprays are quick to dry. Different brands have different characteristics. The distance you spray is a very big factor on the outcome of your work. If your paint job becomes powdery, you are spraying too far meaning that the paint dries before contact. If you paint job has drips, maybe you are spraying too close or too much.
When you are finished using the can spray it is a good practice to turn the can spray upside down and spray about 2 times to clean the nozzle. Air will be sprayed out but not the paint. Don’t over do this because the can will lack air pressure to push the paint out.
I always stock non-gloss black can spray paint. It is very easy to use and even a monkey can get good results. I use it for rusted chassis, cheap bumpers, rack/carriers, mirrors, rims, handles, etc. Your bike might not look perfect but it will look better.
Sticky Cables
If you have a sticky or stiff brake/clutch/accel cable you can try this. First check the cable if it is still worth repairing. Check for cable bents, rust, etc. Put the cable in a pan of kerosene/ pain thinner/ parts cleaner/ oil/ Coca-Cola, overnight (just experiment…). Try if the cable will move and if it does, move the cable wire until it’s movement is smooth. Spray WD-40/CRC/ deep penetrating oil and continue until the oil comes out from the other end (take your time and don’t rush or you might bend the cable). You can also use silicone spray or engine oil if you like.
How to use carburator cleaner and engine conditioner
Using the carb cleaner has pros and cons. The good thing about carb cleaner spray is that it will clean the inside unwanted deposits (carbon build up and sludges). Doing a full carburetor overhaul is the best thing to do but if you want to clean the valves a bit, engine conditioner and carb cleaner is for you. Remember that these chemicals will damage palstic and rubber parts so be very careful when you use them. If you are working on a carburetor or EFI, it is best to put a rag under the carb/EFI and be careful not to drip these chemicals especially on electronic parts. Don’t get too paranoid because they won’t give damage to plastic and rubber parts that easily.
1st get your engine to warm up. Remove the airduct from the air filter. Get a rag and spray the chemical on the rag. Open the flap and stick your finger in and clean the area especially the edges of the flap.
If you want to go further to clean the valves a bit, spray in the carb cleaner/engine conditioner inside the throttle body but make sure that you try to minimize (best if none will enter) the hole just in front of the flap on EFIs because these holes are mostly for idling unit. Do this while the engine is running to get best results but for EFIs with air flow meters, it is best to do it while the engine is not running because if you take the duct the engine will stall. You can still do it but you have to stick in a long hose and redo the clamps. Spray around the throttle body and control the engine’s throttle by pulling the cam or cable. DO NOT OVER DO THIS AND DO NOT OVER REV. If you do this for a long time there may be oil shortage on the valves and you’ll fck the engine. There will be lots of white smoke from the exhaust and try not to inhale the smoke. I quarantee that a normal person without asthma will have asthma if he sucks too much of this white smoke. While doing this, the engine will run funny or will stall but after the routine, your engine should run OK and if not do a full carb overhaul.
It is not advisable to to this on 2 strokers especially for racer models because most racers oil mixture is low. It will basically clean the ports but I advise that you dismantle the parts (cylinder, exhaust) and decarbonizes it manually because manual cleaning is better.
After doing this, spray a bit of CRC/WD-40 on the pivot point on the flap and put the parts back together. Now remove the spark plugs and clean it with a wire brush because there will be soot build-up in the plugs. Start the engine and give it some quick revs until the white smoke is not visible anymore.
There are times that people will think that the carb needs an overhaul but there are times that the vacuum hoses cracks up and engine condition is unsatisfactory. Older Nissan Sunny is famous for this.
Again be very careful using carb cleaners and engine conditioners. If you spill some amount below the unit, wash it out with water ut be careful not to let water enter the spark plug hole or the distributor.
Dead battery and electrical components
I want to share this:
I bought a dead bike and I found out that one of the components of the CDI burned. I bought a CDI and just replaced it. I jump started the bike and the engine worked properly but after several minutes, the CDI burned again. What I did is pulled out the main wiring and stripped all the tapings, checked for continuity, checked the rectifier, fuse box, relays, alternator’s continuity, pick-up coil, coil, meter unit, etc… everything but I couldn’t find anything wrong. Again I bought another CDI and this time with the complete wire harness plus the rectifier, fuse box, relays, and coils.
What I did was jump started it by using a portable power booster that I use for jump starting cars (most stupid thing that anybody can do)… CDI component went bananas again. I forgot that my power booster gives a higher voltage especially when fully charged. Now I have 3 dead CDI’s. I opened the CDI and changed the power up component, checked the diode, chip continuity, board continuity, etc and placed a new Yuasa battery (I love Yuasa). The bike started and I checked the voltage coming out from the alternator. The bike is now sweet and working perfectly.
I called the bike shop where I bought the bike and asked some of the bike’s history. He’s a monkey and don’t know Jack s**t about electricity. My conclusion is that the bike’s battery went flat and couldn’t accept charging from the alternator that fried the CDI. The bike shop guy jump started the bike without changing the flat dead battery and normally it will fry something. I fried the 2nd CDI because I didn’t check the battery if it would accept charging. The 3rd time was another basic stupidity that I forgot that my power booster gives a higher/stronger voltage. Sometimes I forget the basic stuffs and repairs are time consuming, expensive and exhausting and to accept the fact that I’m a dumb monkey who’s not using his coconuts.
Always check your battery if it will accept charging and never use a dead flat battery that will not accept electricity coming from the alternator. Never use a very strong power booster to jump start a bike just like what that monkey did because electrical components are very delicate. If you do not know how to check a dead flat battery, first connect the power booster to the battery and leave it there for about 10 to 15 minutes BUT remember NOT TO TURN ON THE IGNITION KEY. After 15 minutes, disconnect the power booster from the battery. Turn on the key and turn on the marker lights or the head lights. If you don’t see the lights to power on, the battery is probably very dead and it may not accept recharging from the alternator. If you have a DC voltage tester, use it because it is more reliable.
CDI/ECU, digital meters, dynamos, etc are repairable. Some people thinks that they are not repairable Some of them are very hard to open because of the glue, rubber, sticky silicone thing, and some of the units maybe casted or sealed. And again, some are repairable and some are not. Also always check the electrical connectors for deterioration, dirt, weak contacts and wire connection to the connectors. It is wise to file, sand paper, scratch the connectors to maximize, electrical flow. It is also a good practice to spray deep penetrating oils like CRC, WD40, etc but never use non conductive oils.
Improvise
There are time that you may have to use what is around you. There are some repair tasks that requires specialized tools. There are times that you will need special tools if you are planning to be very serious with repair but do not forget that basic tools and improvised tool can take you a long way. I find using a shovel as a lever (for lifting the wheel) perfect for changing the rear tire of a bike (especially big bikes) . The shovel acts like a spoon and holds the tire very well.
I don’t have a press or a tire changer and I use a truck’s rig to detach the tire from the rim’s bead (tubeless tires). It works OK. Large C clamps does the work also especially for bike tires. I tried using the rig as a press to repair my trials engine guard but I was not successful. It works well for some off road engine guards but my trials engine guard just won’t bend… I need to use a proper press to do the repairs… Some works and some doesn’t.
Labels: maintenance/wrenching
posted by DAbbott @ 8:00 AM
<< Home